tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11807964788558711702024-03-13T00:29:06.500-07:00Pi Hard, with a vengeance! Robots, Arduino, PcDuino and the Raspberry Pi! Some hardware hacks from my home shop with bits and pieces from 3D printers!Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-24673048917306081422017-03-31T12:03:00.000-07:002017-03-31T12:03:21.468-07:00Rover Robot Hacked to fire 4-barrel 32 Caliber Minigun.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Rover Robot Hacked to fire 4-barrel 32 Caliber Minigun.</b></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7etTJ-YDgBihpSdwQ-NR5xIcRyBzoedt83XQifLRor6gXaehz-xOz06JD8bE29PrI596Z1u12H8_bomhgkjFKGufJAfQG6ZFec25hV-EUJULCSFP9jLxrYoDZB_TQZlEjd1orOMBuJsc/s1600/20170224_154155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7etTJ-YDgBihpSdwQ-NR5xIcRyBzoedt83XQifLRor6gXaehz-xOz06JD8bE29PrI596Z1u12H8_bomhgkjFKGufJAfQG6ZFec25hV-EUJULCSFP9jLxrYoDZB_TQZlEjd1orOMBuJsc/s320/20170224_154155.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This was an experiment to try and hack the hardware of an off-the-shelf toy "robot". It worked very well and was an interesting build. In this article, I am going to show how this was performed and give an idea of how you can modify closed source hardware with a minimum of parts to add your own hardware</div>
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Using a Brookstone Rover 2.0 WiFi controlled Robot with a hardware hack to fire a home-made 4-barrel, 32 caliber mini gun. Each time the headlights are cycled on/off, the mini gun will fire a round out of the consecutive barrel.</div>
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Here's a demonstration of this Rover actually firing the mini gun!</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/1d8OEmn4jno/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1d8OEmn4jno?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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If you have a Brookstone Rover 2.0 and would like to run it using a PS3 game controller and an Ubuntu (or Windows/Mac) laptop like that is shown in the video, Simon Levy has provided the Python code and and some great instructions at:</div>
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<a href="https://github.com/simondlevy/RoverPylot" target="_blank">https://github.com/simondlevy/RoverPylot</a></div>
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The circuit for the Rover does not really have any options to expand the hardware, so I used an 4N27 opto-isolator to hijack the headlight LED Signal that is monitored by an Arduino Nano. Each time the Headlight is turned on/off from the controller, it fires one of the gun barrels. This method can be modified to be use on just about any RC toy that has a remote LED switch. The schematics are broken down into 2 parts. The first one shows how to wire the Opto-Isolator and Arduino into the Rover's Headlight LED. The second shows how to switch 4 devices (4 barrels in my case) using tip120 transistors. I will also provide the simple arduino code that operates this hack.</div>
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The Rover supplied enough current to turn on the individual headlight as well as trigger the opto-isolator, so I did not have to alter the rover's existing circuitry. Just solder the opto switch onto the free solder pads on a headlight led circuit board. Other RC device LED circuits you may have to remove the existing LED and replace it with the opto-isolator.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8zIY1sEtV0WZY8a4tAKOxVA3s-mak7ycjPDpMVGmbUiUBGpRJqKsHGjCfY4CqECQokO4YzJBFo3PD82mX0hFkLmwOaq_e7IyTj0vBMf9qfN6fclQbt69sbrwaeJsImb-0gF9KBZzFqBU/s1600/20170213_185411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8zIY1sEtV0WZY8a4tAKOxVA3s-mak7ycjPDpMVGmbUiUBGpRJqKsHGjCfY4CqECQokO4YzJBFo3PD82mX0hFkLmwOaq_e7IyTj0vBMf9qfN6fclQbt69sbrwaeJsImb-0gF9KBZzFqBU/s200/20170213_185411.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7a-gOmpRIpNYLhpEXQpAc-T3_81XOFnx11K1RgSRXDBubNNFPnwfwGuCgm8R1MbxL1CpyFENJvLHXxnK7vCJeMuuWE5nCehjA9WGRcxBanKWv9tiB8YKGaTHwydadZw4QFV_NYNbofE/s1600/20170213_185314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7a-gOmpRIpNYLhpEXQpAc-T3_81XOFnx11K1RgSRXDBubNNFPnwfwGuCgm8R1MbxL1CpyFENJvLHXxnK7vCJeMuuWE5nCehjA9WGRcxBanKWv9tiB8YKGaTHwydadZw4QFV_NYNbofE/s200/20170213_185314.jpg" width="200" /></a>The rover has 4 headlight LED circuit boards along with free/open MARKED solder pads on each! You can't ask for an easier connection!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhawyAbxDVT3euefajG0WXq7fpk6D9V2w1jvOPlFX_Iv-VQ3wFaqZw0GTKU5LKE4w77hRJ2qkDuIgloeXFcrH03gJ4h8bIWrs5gDlE97KRSH7MDcGcXOIo8qeA_fJi6RmUEkpni3znsQjw/s1600/20170213_191131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhawyAbxDVT3euefajG0WXq7fpk6D9V2w1jvOPlFX_Iv-VQ3wFaqZw0GTKU5LKE4w77hRJ2qkDuIgloeXFcrH03gJ4h8bIWrs5gDlE97KRSH7MDcGcXOIo8qeA_fJi6RmUEkpni3znsQjw/s320/20170213_191131.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Note: I powered the arduino using the Rover's Battery connection on the main board. This allows the arduino to be turned on and off when the rover's power switch is turned on/off. (see photo above). The pads are clearly marked for B+ and B- for battery + and - on the Rover's main circuit board.</div>
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B+ goes to the Nano's VIN. B- goes to the Nano's GND.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsK-4R56DHPARrJtY9fbzpKRy5tQgYd_MGr8lkZ6zxWaWJt9xEw1-xCAR0MqPgYfR8Snp3HA5r23NHf7WKvXzGwPYTqiNgkOf2nejkoEomXn1UIWR9ZTJiJenVOmgQjBNsYFY-LrD2jvU/s1600/roverleddetect_schem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsK-4R56DHPARrJtY9fbzpKRy5tQgYd_MGr8lkZ6zxWaWJt9xEw1-xCAR0MqPgYfR8Snp3HA5r23NHf7WKvXzGwPYTqiNgkOf2nejkoEomXn1UIWR9ZTJiJenVOmgQjBNsYFY-LrD2jvU/s320/roverleddetect_schem.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click image for full size opto-isolator Schematic.</td></tr>
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A couple resistors and a connection to Input pin D8 to read the signal. 5v from the arduino provides the correct voltage for the input pin (Signal high, headlight is off). That's all that is required to read the rover's headlights turn on and off. Since it uses the opto-isolator, the arduino is isolated from the Rover's circuitry except for the same voltage supply and GND.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk0cIfcac8Ko74n8StZygNICXzgTA223mrfNIQLiwqXpzXO8JM_WST5AZCVr5QV7xwYa7pLU_aMRbGEd4GcvnwZb1PAtywUQFrkmCtgKS0Z_8tqfL_j38TEKYlrvt38dSgvRkMeJaJFHQ/s1600/gunBarrelSingle_schem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk0cIfcac8Ko74n8StZygNICXzgTA223mrfNIQLiwqXpzXO8JM_WST5AZCVr5QV7xwYa7pLU_aMRbGEd4GcvnwZb1PAtywUQFrkmCtgKS0Z_8tqfL_j38TEKYlrvt38dSgvRkMeJaJFHQ/s320/gunBarrelSingle_schem.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click image for full size schematic.</td></tr>
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The circuit that fires my mini gun is a simple TIP120 Darlington transistor switch. It uses a separate power supply that has the Battery + connected to the Loads + power on J1. When the arduino D7 goes high, the TIP120 turns on and provides the ground for the circuit. Acting as a switch to complete the circuit. This circuit can be used to turn on motors, solenoids and even lasers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-S0YzrxPG-JGvYqEdSir5lhxtCxrlVbgeLg8FJnTPH6dZ4dlGpU5qHSnD8Jt0GIk2ttCM4GUfHSrTyVoNbEjjPEVoGKbpwQGr-8L4l1S3AkvvPYex3_1Z1xXFG8_CCGfF3NIumhoQPpY/s1600/gunBarrel_schem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-S0YzrxPG-JGvYqEdSir5lhxtCxrlVbgeLg8FJnTPH6dZ4dlGpU5qHSnD8Jt0GIk2ttCM4GUfHSrTyVoNbEjjPEVoGKbpwQGr-8L4l1S3AkvvPYex3_1Z1xXFG8_CCGfF3NIumhoQPpY/s320/gunBarrel_schem.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: 12.8px;"><i>Click image for full size schematic</i></b></td></tr>
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I repeated this circuit a total of 4 times (Digital pins D4-D7). This allows me to treat each barrel of my mini gun as an independent device and allows the code to fire each barrel independently.</div>
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The code to detect the headlight signal and fire each of the 4 barrels is very simple and can be downloaded from here:</div>
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<a href="https://github.com/14point4kbps/Rover-Cannon/" target="_blank">https://github.com/14point4kbps/Rover-Cannon/</a></div>
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<pre style="background: #f0f0f0; border: 1px dashed #cccccc; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12px; height: auto; line-height: 20px; overflow: auto; padding: 0px; text-align: left; width: 99%;"><code style="color: black; word-wrap: normal;"> #define beam 8 //Digital signal pin # from opto-isolator
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(beam, INPUT); //Read signal from headlight
for(int bar = 4; bar <8; bar++)
{
pinMode(bar, OUTPUT); //Open digital pin 4-7 for output (barrel triggers)
}
}
void loop()
{
for(int bar = 4; bar <8; bar++) //"bar" is barrel 1-4 on digital pins 4-7
{
while(digitalRead(beam)==1){ //do nothing while headlights are off (digital pin 8 signal)
delay(100);}
while(digitalRead(beam)==0){ //if headlights are on, fire next barrel on next digital pin
digitalWrite(bar, HIGH); //trigger ignitor on bar digital pin "bar".
delay(3500); //delay 3.5 seconds to reach high temp
digitalWrite(bar, LOW); //turn off ignitor on digital pin "bar"
}
digitalWrite(bar, LOW);
}
}
</code></pre>
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The code is commented and should be self explanatory. It monitors pin 8 for the headlight to be on, then it cycles through pin 4-7 to fire each barrel each time it receives the signal.<br />
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As mentioned, this circuit can be easily used on other remote control toys or any device that uses an LED to indicate an ON/OFF state. <br />
As for the mini cannon itself and the technique/design to fire it, I am not going to discuss how it was made since it is extremely dangerous, but could be deadly. If you have the proper tools and knowledge to accomplish this build, then it would be a very simple project. <b>DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RECREATE THIS FULL PROJECT WITHOUT PROPER TRAINING and TESTING!</b>Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-82119939332248428872016-12-04T13:07:00.001-08:002016-12-04T16:47:08.172-08:00Aluminum Casting X-Y Axis Acme Nut Trap from 3D printed models. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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X axis acme nut trap. </div>
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I am using 3/8" acme rods and nuts for my X and Y axis. Nothing I could find would fit my custom cnc build, so I decided to 3D print some models out of ABS and cast them out of scrap aluminum. </div>
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Models and Machined acme nut Traps. </div>
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After casting the parts in a sand mold, I machined them on a 12" drill press using an X-Y table and a CNC straight cutter. Slight modifications to make them fit exactly how I needed them. </div>
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Y Axis acme nut trap. </div>
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Right now there are only a couple washers/nuts locking the nut to the trap. Once the cnc is up and running I will machine a couple clamps to lock them to the nut traps. </div>
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-81181206959339545632016-11-17T19:51:00.000-08:002016-11-17T19:51:02.820-08:00Aluminum Casting CNC Z-axis carriage<div style="text-align: center;">
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It's been a while since my last post, but there is a really good reason. I was building a foundry and teaching myself mold making for aluminum casting. The real hard part was getting a 3d ABS print to create a clean mold. A problem since it is not a smooth surface. I found a solution and will be making another post to explain how to do it.<br />
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The video above shows the casting process for 1 of the 6 parts that make up the Z-axis/carriage for my CNC. It included the spindle mount I designed for the ryobi circle cutter spindle. There are 2 smooth rod holders for 8mm rods, 2x bearing mounts for 15mm OD 8mm ID bearings.</div>
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It turned out really well with very tight tolerances. No play at all.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGYPq0DSrBN9Wb7yZpIxKUCWsUbTUTW1_bP553z7xRYUYWpDdl7DFnH5OuRTcwkYM50i2j2XCG9gYLugqPS0Mw0B4bWL4AMYFIXbyIMsT-RJVidPCJq2ri9yNVY3Q8gMCVOa35mvF8mvg/s1600/IMG_20161113_111144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGYPq0DSrBN9Wb7yZpIxKUCWsUbTUTW1_bP553z7xRYUYWpDdl7DFnH5OuRTcwkYM50i2j2XCG9gYLugqPS0Mw0B4bWL4AMYFIXbyIMsT-RJVidPCJq2ri9yNVY3Q8gMCVOa35mvF8mvg/s320/IMG_20161113_111144.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sand cast mold of the 3d printed part.</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiegL-yDnnjjXIbGpCQKqzYQi8TEaQmQONqadH2o_Zal1FPqukvfp06nNWdGbo2tFbEpHJiq8LNWRjwNvNzLy6INOAugQnmeo6sdyVoVvEh8tnHRjihv4EtyOfheGukDh-J5fMjnlrBpGM/s1600/IMG_20161113_120227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiegL-yDnnjjXIbGpCQKqzYQi8TEaQmQONqadH2o_Zal1FPqukvfp06nNWdGbo2tFbEpHJiq8LNWRjwNvNzLy6INOAugQnmeo6sdyVoVvEh8tnHRjihv4EtyOfheGukDh-J5fMjnlrBpGM/s320/IMG_20161113_120227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Comparison of the 3d part alongside the aluminum casting.</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBH3K2xxWnv43f5xbZcWZ3oY78PQ64PgGSFKS0WttCx_Ecq1oxnQVm4LAC2CR39SuvDeICfAbuZYzSWp1a9Fx2wOXbFnWcnzWEpla3VqhowXFCDyWywuSeJzUnK7NflTgWUxruj5jnVzA/s1600/20161115_114546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBH3K2xxWnv43f5xbZcWZ3oY78PQ64PgGSFKS0WttCx_Ecq1oxnQVm4LAC2CR39SuvDeICfAbuZYzSWp1a9Fx2wOXbFnWcnzWEpla3VqhowXFCDyWywuSeJzUnK7NflTgWUxruj5jnVzA/s320/20161115_114546.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Aluminum Cast smooth rod mounts.</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibdPdfv1uqSewF7YE7lvWNlk96Qbq2_MbgoJomHthluMFD6Don9ppZmVU-nALfcmeWZnh2OooFuN4VLuYRQKUoc5KimalJ3wyUCtqevBAq-vnxs-QspUatO1iaLtne_VB0pessZkrzJT0/s1600/fullz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibdPdfv1uqSewF7YE7lvWNlk96Qbq2_MbgoJomHthluMFD6Don9ppZmVU-nALfcmeWZnh2OooFuN4VLuYRQKUoc5KimalJ3wyUCtqevBAq-vnxs-QspUatO1iaLtne_VB0pessZkrzJT0/s320/fullz.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The complete Z-axis carriage assembly.</h3>
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Almost to the electronics. Just have to install the Acme screws/nuts, Design mounts for the limit switches. Then I can start on the electronics assembly/setup. It is coming along really well.<br />
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Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-68325784483091525582016-04-05T17:44:00.000-07:002016-04-05T17:44:32.392-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>Recycled parts for my CNC</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOhAa-HDJr3oDQcj78ujkJG9y9Bab4ybaSxLxmG3itsW-BlmCqrxU0SvigEWurpf5y7P3fjRXZUyuUkEljvZ0qZuNA1dYKG_bxj024_4BEDW3zyUBLY17ls_f9Hwb1nGbUPTW3MnzVHeM/s1600/IMG_20160405_163400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOhAa-HDJr3oDQcj78ujkJG9y9Bab4ybaSxLxmG3itsW-BlmCqrxU0SvigEWurpf5y7P3fjRXZUyuUkEljvZ0qZuNA1dYKG_bxj024_4BEDW3zyUBLY17ls_f9Hwb1nGbUPTW3MnzVHeM/s320/IMG_20160405_163400.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I am all about reusing, recycling junk in my builds. The cutter/spindle motor is no exception. I've been shopping around for my spindle motor for my cnc. Estimated this would cost me $70-$150 for this part alone. Then while looking for some hardware in my junk box, I came across the perfect motor! </div>
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This is a Ryobi SS180 speed saw/circle cutter that I purchased as part of a Ryobi tool package almost 10 years ago and has never been used. I cracked it open and found the perfect spindle for my cnc. Perfect especially since it is FREE! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIT-RV0yLWSHDPopTWrjWrl5DsNe4Inxsp97bOHyhAza4PrUDBfMNfTI7XydF706racQSyQaTeomMu_T_Tqb2kj3ikhFhqZlphlc-uxRJvMyp-GyglBSDieMJ2WiTZwTlB25HNmmSvFoA/s1600/IMG_20160405_170648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIT-RV0yLWSHDPopTWrjWrl5DsNe4Inxsp97bOHyhAza4PrUDBfMNfTI7XydF706racQSyQaTeomMu_T_Tqb2kj3ikhFhqZlphlc-uxRJvMyp-GyglBSDieMJ2WiTZwTlB25HNmmSvFoA/s320/IMG_20160405_170648.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The motor is rated at 26,000 @ 18v dc. I can hook this up to the cnc controller or more likely, I will connect it to it's own DC PWM controller for manual speed control. It has a 1/8" and 1/4" reversable collet sleeve already on the shaft as well as a high speed bearing. It appears the shaft is hardened tool steel, so it should work very well. Also is air cooled (fan). </div>
Mounting threaded screw holes on the body and the beefy 32mm bearing on the shaft will make mounting extremely easy. Never know when you will be able to use something in your junk drawers!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRoji4esOWBAYxvSfHDHT3879UKKTHDW-TVXsMatS5RSP7hm_WtRtNpejOfCM2yGEYvBSZdn_J2VKGmkjBUnjj2Mmbn4kqyGbRdWgeCu9gB70XRVWKvEGiRUNswAKW_ThUDoZqfftXR4c/s1600/20160331_143055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRoji4esOWBAYxvSfHDHT3879UKKTHDW-TVXsMatS5RSP7hm_WtRtNpejOfCM2yGEYvBSZdn_J2VKGmkjBUnjj2Mmbn4kqyGbRdWgeCu9gB70XRVWKvEGiRUNswAKW_ThUDoZqfftXR4c/s320/20160331_143055.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Another new addition to my shop is a Grizzly G8750 compound slide table for my drill press! Until now I have been doing all my metal machining freehand. I wish I had this when I started my build. It makes everything so much easier and precise! Next upgrade will be a new drill press.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLEJEDnCgns8fEtZqjwdbaJzrEwgjsY9K_U_VaD9SkgWkBfKNIhiAbS-2CeiPE_2n1EF0RqZoT-s0zFl8Rr5f70gvQdFfJ1G1uLj4aIMKt4z74fsYcwbL4DvTpwnvG1C-azwyFh9iTJY/s1600/IMG_20160404_220405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLEJEDnCgns8fEtZqjwdbaJzrEwgjsY9K_U_VaD9SkgWkBfKNIhiAbS-2CeiPE_2n1EF0RqZoT-s0zFl8Rr5f70gvQdFfJ1G1uLj4aIMKt4z74fsYcwbL4DvTpwnvG1C-azwyFh9iTJY/s320/IMG_20160404_220405.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Bearing and motor mounts in t6061 aluminum are so much more precise with the X-Y compound table! It's a dream! </div>
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<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-50181770745971611252016-03-22T19:14:00.001-07:002016-03-25T18:25:33.656-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEohuGS37SXV0atIz4mRpAFtbAv5MZzGB0JbP9_kvls9GvZgGrUVyaIGTWBl2OhHV7A1SKEtdb8guo16N_b5MTyKfbzWg7iLBWq2RndKlvXtC0GTikQIfmko7Sgng976Uq3MtZ87I5v3c/s1600/download_20160325_180853.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEohuGS37SXV0atIz4mRpAFtbAv5MZzGB0JbP9_kvls9GvZgGrUVyaIGTWBl2OhHV7A1SKEtdb8guo16N_b5MTyKfbzWg7iLBWq2RndKlvXtC0GTikQIfmko7Sgng976Uq3MtZ87I5v3c/s320/download_20160325_180853.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Minor update, installed the 5/8" acme screw for the X axis using a 3/4" push bearing in the uprights. NEMA 17 motor connected with a 6mm to 5/8" coupler. . Z plate has 2040 openbeam installed. Next step is to mount the Y axis acme bolt, motor and hardware. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDS2y71WFNO-KpO5tcCbHhT7T1tJ6ZfcqFKMVuHKeWOiCuKyGdajY75uUh7AbKOT2P-bsViebyE9XupU_4ej3GzVS3vadgVkiD21nHD3ybwKXcszyJYPFQfC45W7M0bzAG7d_Hej-bHCI/s1600/cnc2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDS2y71WFNO-KpO5tcCbHhT7T1tJ6ZfcqFKMVuHKeWOiCuKyGdajY75uUh7AbKOT2P-bsViebyE9XupU_4ej3GzVS3vadgVkiD21nHD3ybwKXcszyJYPFQfC45W7M0bzAG7d_Hej-bHCI/s320/cnc2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the current state of my CNC build. The X and Y axis are complete, using 12mm Rods and bearings. I am waiting for delivery of some 20x40mm Openbeam to start the build on the Z axis.<br />
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The Z axis will be removable to swap different cutters/heads that can easily be bolted onto the 2040mm openbeam.. After that, the only parts that remain are the 5/8" threaded rods and the electronics.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcokehZ7Eg0BHJfqJcO94SVnITi0je1KRSiAYpRq4NfPaWRJ9Qu0akXcinl4uSjjmgHXSSgyTH4MT9Un2ArKMwAVPTtWQjtGIYDm5IaOEDtjyfdcBOVBwmWSGA9T_9-UabuBNxOJ2yhxA/s1600/cncxy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcokehZ7Eg0BHJfqJcO94SVnITi0je1KRSiAYpRq4NfPaWRJ9Qu0akXcinl4uSjjmgHXSSgyTH4MT9Un2ArKMwAVPTtWQjtGIYDm5IaOEDtjyfdcBOVBwmWSGA9T_9-UabuBNxOJ2yhxA/s320/cncxy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The initial setup will be Sainsmart tb6560 4 axis 3.5amp controllers using 3x 17hs24-2104s Stepper motors and Mach3 Controller software running on an old IBM Thinkpad (for the serial port) running WIN-XP. Not sure of the cutter head that will be used, but initially going to use a palm router with an electronic speed control unit.Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-9494794824912615322015-11-06T20:32:00.000-08:002015-11-06T20:32:06.756-08:00Favorite Build, CNC<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP64o9wAjzmifZfzwl2acLkarRoI5dWOFZ_ByR0dK1TTXTLCVpZX8xlbQU8AkFOrSGM_yVulvgu4pbxWXDH9aracQqd0CJWJq-hcx9K_O1ym8YE2WZ0OPSCHIG0Luol3bwENOLFP4CQWk/s1600/20151106_185720_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP64o9wAjzmifZfzwl2acLkarRoI5dWOFZ_ByR0dK1TTXTLCVpZX8xlbQU8AkFOrSGM_yVulvgu4pbxWXDH9aracQqd0CJWJq-hcx9K_O1ym8YE2WZ0OPSCHIG0Luol3bwENOLFP4CQWk/s320/20151106_185720_HDR.jpg" title="Y-axis carriage locked the entire length to the cutting bed. " width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Home Made CNC Build</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b>This is my absolute favorite project I have ever worked on! After 3d printing and customizing the <a href="https://github.com/carlosgs/Cyclone-PCB-Factory/tree/v2.1" target="_blank">CYCLONE PCB CNC</a>, I decided it was time to go onto a project I have dreamed about starting for several years. A full size CNC with a coolant pump that is capable of cutting Aluminum! </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> This is the first axis (Y axis) installed on the 1"x1" square tube (1/8" thick) steel frame. The current stats are 30" Y-axis (length), a 20" X-axis (width) and the Z-axis (height) will be adjustable by a changeable carriage. My current goal is going to be a 6" cutting height. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The frame sides are welded. The 3/8" case hardened rods are anchored at the ends in aluminum blocks with the steel tube ends mounted to the aluminum blocks. The bed is attached to the steel tube ends. This allows the bed and rail to be locked at a specific distance and will be true throughout the entire Y-axis! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOmkvaoLUvIJtfBDvL-ComrAuqjBk4BbCXZgm60DzbBlwCwXamTjg8LjuMZ1s8esegI6NiN-UjXsYCQPMWP6MsX_jLNZYSAeJR_GqxaPyrEmD3SWlsGdf8I7Iztrm_liSELNKwx6Qvqww/s1600/1446867002965227174184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOmkvaoLUvIJtfBDvL-ComrAuqjBk4BbCXZgm60DzbBlwCwXamTjg8LjuMZ1s8esegI6NiN-UjXsYCQPMWP6MsX_jLNZYSAeJR_GqxaPyrEmD3SWlsGdf8I7Iztrm_liSELNKwx6Qvqww/s320/1446867002965227174184.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The result is the Y-axis rods are locked into the bed, even if the frame was off. Even though the sides of the frame are spot welded, almost every other part is being attached with black oxide hex nuts and tapped/threaded holes. The bed is standard 20mm x 60mm openbeam t-slot aluminum. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> My design is made to lock one part into the next, before being screwed together. BUT, if any part were off and needed adjusting, they can easily be shimmed. That is another design goal with this project. I want everything to be replaceable/upgradable. For example, I am starting with NEMA 17 motors (because I already have them.), but think I will be upgrading almost immediately to NEMA 23 for aluminum. The Z-carriage will be able to swap out for different heights and cutters. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Next will be building the X-axis. Hope it goes as well. Check back for updates. </span></div>
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-48680213314612677442015-08-13T23:20:00.001-07:002015-08-14T00:49:09.938-07:00Cyclone PCB cnc<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs5oGBPLZ2tD1kkeYYdYdwOHNsxmb2f4dwvJyHtNqnS11E3aHA-AJdmLWYYdEVoDK8GWBvFxlnyCa9uBr282dOFUr8gXaqb_QI0Tmf1uaNDyJT6BYbjLFfBJ9vKIfKnRljBUoj2FhYQsY/s1600/20150803_010253_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs5oGBPLZ2tD1kkeYYdYdwOHNsxmb2f4dwvJyHtNqnS11E3aHA-AJdmLWYYdEVoDK8GWBvFxlnyCa9uBr282dOFUr8gXaqb_QI0Tmf1uaNDyJT6BYbjLFfBJ9vKIfKnRljBUoj2FhYQsY/s320/20150803_010253_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I've been a little sidetracked with a cnc build lately. This is a wonderful first cnc project using a standard Arduino Mega 2560 with Ramps 1.4, running Marlin as the gcode controller. I printed the parts in a combination of black PLA and red ABS. Printed on a modified Prinrbot simple maker's edition. </div>
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This is the cyclone v2.1 pcb cnc which is located at <a href="https://github.com/carlosgs/Cyclone-PCB-Factory/tree/v2.1" target="_blank">https://github.com/carlosgs/Cyclone-PCB-Factory/tree/v2.1</a></div>
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I managed to build it before there were a detailed instruction file. But they have recently added it to: <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Cyclone_PCB_Factory/build">http://reprap.org/wiki/Cyclone_PCB_Factory/build</a></div>
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There is also a support group located at: <a href="https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!forum/cyclone-pcb-factory" target="_blank">https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!forum/cyclone-pcb-factory</a></div>
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I'll try and post a video of it cutting some shapes in to plexiglass on the next few days. Be sure to print the gears out of ABS since PLA will not last more than a few runs. </div>
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Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-20724935228325258202015-06-06T22:12:00.000-07:002015-06-06T22:12:06.874-07:00Lawnbot's off road test drive video! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/s_vi/PxqB_7vwALs/default.jpg?sqp=CPiaz6sF&rs=AOn4CLCA0rElUTLs3z3Hw8Mhfb3nL_rQOQ" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PxqB_7vwALs?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Here is an updated video of the actual lawnbot running on the lawn. (water rationing in southern Calif. So not much actual lawn!)<br />
Initially it kept stalling out a couple times a minute. Pause for just a second. I thought it was pulling to many amps and the code was shutting the circuit down for safety. This was not the case. It was actually reading the radio to soon and was dropping packets. This result in a no connection result that put the code into a loop till it received valid data from the transmitter.<br />
I did find that the current readings were topping out at 10amps (each motor) with a quick change of directions. So I installed the - 30 to +30amp current sensors and have them safety checking at about 15-17amps. I'll check after the added weight of the propane motor and it's electric starter motor, to adjust it any further. Right now the pwm is limited to 90 out of a possible 255, so there is still a lot of performance possible in this build!<br />
In the video, you will notice that it manages to drive up and over the border bricks. This was a surprise since I didn't think it had that kind of torque/power. Still quite a bit of fun left in all these recycled scraps!<br />
Motor mounts for the propane motor and it's custom starter motor are next on the list (after weight/amp tests). So be sure to check back. Any questions, please let me know!Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-80062976406222724182015-06-03T02:02:00.000-07:002015-06-03T02:02:31.803-07:00Lawnbot finally moves! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/s_vi/Ql6PYat2OT8/default.jpg?sqp=CKzquqsF&rs=AOn4CLB_sCXxqaC9nTLsfhF-C6oTzPqr_g" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ql6PYat2OT8?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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06/03/2015<br />
It's been a while since I have been able to work on this project, but it is now sitting in the middle of my living room for some major upgrades and testing! (and my wife is still talking to me?!?)<br />
I had a 30amp circuit breaker attached. The first time I tested it, It blew the circuit breaker under load. So I installed 2 ACS711EX Current Sensor Carrier -15.5A to +15.5A. The PWM is set to max out at 60 (out of a possible 255) and with the current sensors shutting down the current draw at 13amps per motor, it seems to run quite well. Higher Current supply or different motors will be a future upgrade after I get everything running correctly.<br />
A couple other upgrades you may notice from the video: it has a separate wireless control that will be able to take control during autonomous activities or in an emergency. The remote is made with an analog thumbstick/joystick, an arduino nano clone, 4x16 lcd display and an nrf24l01 2.4ghz radio (2nd one on the lawnbot).<br />
I also added a mosfet and relay switch to allow the lawnbot's mega2560 to turn the high voltage/current to the motor controller. The mega does a simple voltage check to ensure there is enough of a charge. If so will turn on the motor controller's, motor current feed. It does this with a simple voltage divide reading on analog pin 0.<br />
With the upgrades of the current sensors, relay, nrf24 radio, new main power switch, circuit breaker and various leds, it has been rewired a couple dozen times and has some new 3d printed parts. I think the controller will outgrow the enclosure soon, so I may have to design another mount. I'll try to get some newer pictures in the next few days. (already much different than what is shown in the video above!)<br />
The next steps are to test the failsafe controller by driving it around the lawn for a bit. The living room is only big enough to do some parallel parking tests. <br />
If that works out well, then I will start building a custom mount for the propane motor and it's starter motor as well. These will always be manually controlled for safety reasons! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wireless controller before 3d printed housing. Uses external 5v USB batter</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the control assembly from a few weeks ago. When the wires were still manageable! </td></tr>
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Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-35867886108531264542015-01-26T20:35:00.000-08:002015-01-26T20:35:54.942-08:003D Printer Linear Motion without Linear Bearings!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;"> I currently use several modified Printrbot Simple Maker's Editions. They are very solid machines and make some impressive and fast prints. My largest print size is 200mm x 320mm. Roughly 8” x 14".</span></div>
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The one thing that is a constant battle for higher speed prints is slop or flexing parts during the movements. I started experimenting with different materials to use in place of linear bearings for use in 3d printing. Although 8mm linear bearings and case hardened rods are the go-to solution, they still have play that is evident in the prints (especially when changing direction)..</div>
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One quick, possible solution for my existing printers are the small round parts in the pictures. They are 8mm I.d. x 10mm x 10mm linear bushings. The are self lubricating bronze linear bushings with a hardened carbon steel outer casing and a PTFE (Teflon) inner liner. Extremely nice fit with no play, but they will require some new mounts to be fabricated to fit my existing bearing mounts.</div>
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The white part on rails is a test for my custom designed printer. The plastic is also self lubricating, but is HDPE. </div>
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I am very excited about this test as it is smoother than the bearings could ever hope to be and will easily be fabricated so there will be no play when mounted correctly.</div>
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It's 5/8” thick HDPE and has had all 4 sides routed top and bottom, leaving a 3mm tab that fits snugly into the 3mm screw rail of 15x15 mm extruded aluminum (openbeam v2.1).</div>
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This is an idea that I hope to develop in my custom printer and maybe even for the CNC machine I have been planning for the future.</div>
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The last item is a roll of PTFE tape. I had considered using it to line the edges of an aluminum plate that could also run in the extrusions rail with HDPE wheels to provide side pressure, removing all play. That is something I will be trying and sharing the results here as well.<br />
It may be necessary to use aluminum/Teflon combo over the HDPE glide depending on how well my ideas work out to prevent heat creep on the heated bed and extruder mount. HDPE is my material choice for these projects. Wonderfully smoother linear movements without bearings.Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-19544243583610522442014-11-13T00:55:00.000-08:002015-01-26T20:45:45.102-08:00New hardware including 3d Printers are being added! I got extremely sidetracked while waiting for a delivery of 10 ultrasonic sensors from China. It basically took 3 months before the shipper would agree they were lost in transit. In the mean time, I received a Christmas gift that took over 100% of my hobby time. A Printrbot Simple 2013 maker's edition 3D printer. Since that time I have completely changed the design of that original printer and built 2 more.<br />
I started designing mod files and even recreating the original Laser-cut DFX files into Printable STL format. If you have a printer you can print your own 2014 Printrbot Simple 1405. If you don't you can commission an owner to print you one or even use a local 3d print service. Those and all my files can be located at <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/metaled/designs" target="_blank"> http://www.thingiverse.com/metaled/designs</a><br />
I have a ton of subjects I would like to share hints and tips for. Don't get me wrong, I have ordered new Ultrasonic Sensors and do plan to continue sharing that robotics project. But I also plan to share Raspberry Pi, PcDuino, Arduino, Intel Edison and lots of electronic circuits with the Lawn Mower Robot assembly!<br />
I'll try to find time to share as much as possible and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask in the comment sections!<br />
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<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-32710605183769994702013-10-20T08:05:00.000-07:002013-10-20T08:09:23.092-07:00Brains behind Arduino Lawn Mower!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigyZSZ91pxhOeUoM-scFp7pk6c7OyWUq8Y0L7sLw7O3J25_MB7f4X_bWpJYJmUn_ogUoD3bVBVnLHL6CUfE7E6lb7ONAcBgN7L2zFplM0gq7g40KohHkvCG0GfIXexB1DciOlBdUZEtTU/s1600/IMG_20131019_183548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigyZSZ91pxhOeUoM-scFp7pk6c7OyWUq8Y0L7sLw7O3J25_MB7f4X_bWpJYJmUn_ogUoD3bVBVnLHL6CUfE7E6lb7ONAcBgN7L2zFplM0gq7g40KohHkvCG0GfIXexB1DciOlBdUZEtTU/s320/IMG_20131019_183548.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finally got a delivery from China. It is the new Arduino Mega 2560 R3 compatible MCU along with a the v2 Sensor Shield. (this combination had the same pin to usb short I discussed in an earlier post. Be sure to check that post for the fix or it will fry your mega 2560! (<a href="http://pihard.blogspot.com/2013/07/robot-rover-5-with-arduino-mega2560.html" target="_blank">Arduino Mega 2560 shorts against v2 Sensor Shield) </a></div>
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It took a couple weeks to be delivered, but the price is less than a quarter of what the cheapest price vendors are offering it here in the U. S.. Not only do a lot of local vendors order them from china, but a lot of auction sellers will take your money and have it drop shipped from china. Well worth it to do some research and cut out the middle-man! </div>
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Now that I started to put the components into the battery box, it is getting very tight with the new SLA 12Ah 12v battery. The solution is to build a multi-level control board that will slip right in beside the battery. Seems like it works very well, but it might get a little tight after I start adding sensors and more wiring. </div>
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The control board is very simple. I used a scroll saw to cut some recycled plastic (old store sign) and the spaced 3 of them together using metal stand-offs. If the stand-offs are hard to locate, you could also use small diameter threaded rods. Just tighten the plastic into place by sandwiching it between a couple washers an bolts. </div>
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I also drilled holes to mount my microcontroller boards and larger ones for wire runs and possibly air flow in case I need to install any cooling fans. </div>
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Final pic for this post.</div>
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The paint complete. An industrial weatherproof Rustoleum door and metal paint. Hard as a rock, gloss black. Also shows some of the electronics being test fit! This stage of the fabrication is almost done. Now I get to do some simple coding and 9 (remote controlled driving!) . I am really looking forward to this thing moving under its own power! </div>
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After some remote controlled driving and any mechanical tweaks, I will install the propane powered cutter motor with a custom fabricated mount and start testing with sensors to make it truly automated. I am real curios if sonar/sonic sensors will work alongside a loud combustion engine! </div>
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Maybe I'll finally get to post some action videos and not just sti9</div>
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Well, back to the lab! Hope you enjoyed this installment. If you have any questions, please leave a comment and I will do my best to help. </div>
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-26558429052693167272013-10-03T21:36:00.000-07:002013-10-03T21:48:21.265-07:00Hobby RC remote for testing the Lawnbot! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been stuck indoors, unable to work on the mechanical parts of our robotic lawn mower. I took advantage of this time and wired a Futaba FP-R127DF 7 channel Receiver to an Arduino Uno r3 and wrote a few lines of code to see if I could get it to read the signal from a Futaba T6XH-Super PCM1024 6 channel transmitter. Was a lot easier to get the Arduino to display the signals than it is going to be for me to figure out what they all are. This is a programmable aircraft/helicopter remote with settings for just about everything. Ailerons, flap, Swash Plates and mixing of all the signals. Wish it was a standard RC car remote! It's going to take some research to program the transmitter. With what I do know now, I believe I can get it driving the bot. </div>
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I started out the day knowing nothing about how to read or interpret rc hobby remotes. I searched and found a real nice tutorial over at sparkfun. Wasn't as complete as I thought, but there is additional info in the comments that will help get it working with dual motor controllers. The actual page is: <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/348" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/348</a></div>
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BTW, not sure if the Raspberry Pi running Raspbian allows for enough time slicing in the multi-tasking to be able to poll the serial ports (usb) for an rc transmitter combo. I originally started using the Pi to program the Arduino as I always do. When I opened the serial port monitor to view the signals, the cpu bogged down and brought the entire system to an absolute crawl at 9600bps. Made it unusable. Was forced to bring out another machine with an OS that I loathe! If it weren't my kids, I would install linux on it. If you were to really delay the polling, you may be able to read it, but I would really check into other OSs or distributions if you want to use it with the Pi. This is one of the reasons I will be using the arduino with the Pi on this robot. </div>
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Tomorrow I hope to post some new updates on the chassis. At the latest I hope to have something actually moving my the end of next week! </div>
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I also updated the current hardware page. This is really starting to run together. I think it's time to separate the parts by project. That way if you are trying to duplicate something, you will know exactly what I did it with. </div>
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-22950502899146941062013-10-01T22:19:00.000-07:002013-10-01T22:19:30.745-07:00Large mower-robot chassis progressing quickly ! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here's a quick update since I haven't posted in a bit. Work is going on daily. At least a couple hours a day is what I have been trying for. Lately I have been working on getting a physical chassis up and running. What is pictured is a first mock-up of my 3 wheeled mower bot. </div>
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The 2 rear wheels are salvaged, geared drive, dual 12v, 25 amp motors. Taken from a kid's power wheels ride on jeep. Along with the dual 45amp mosfets driven H-bridge should be more than enough to drive this bot through any urban environment . </div>
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The cutter motor is a 25cc, 4 stroke <b>propane</b> string trimmer (weed whacker) motor. I had built the system around the string trimmer's 18" inch cutter head, but the body size of 18x24 inches is extremely large for my yard and would not only cut the lawn in a couple passes, but prevent me from maneuvering in the tight areas. So I believe I will not only shorten the cutter head, but also the overall size by about 2/3rds.</div>
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The next step is to mount the battery box and some of the computer equipment so I can start testing the base with a 6 channel remote control. I will be sure to post some videos of this step as well. </div>
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The next hurdle is going to be cutting up the motor's clutch housing and fabricating a cutter head drive. Obviously I won't be able to use the 8 foot drive shaft that came with the weed whacker. </div>
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So anytime I am not posting, it's not that I have given up on any of this project! It's more like I am so involved and barely have time to do anything but work on this bot. I really want it to move forward quickly and have a working, remote controlled chassis in the next couple of days! (did I mention a contractor has the front of my house torn off at the moment? Ah, Busy days!) </div>
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-7541954860147413332013-09-22T21:45:00.000-07:002013-09-22T21:45:11.959-07:00Raspberry Pi tablet using Tightvnc and Remote Ripple. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Yesterday I showed you how to convert an inexpensive LCD monitor to be powered and run with the Raspberry Pi. My intention for that screen is to run a custom python program which will monitor sensor data and system status of my robot. But it is much too small for everyday use and I really don't want to plug it into the HDMI monitor every time I need to change one line of code. The solution for me is to run a TightVNC server on the Raspberry Pi and Remote Ripple (from the creator of TightVNC. ) on my Nexus 10 running Android. I can connect to the RPI from Windows, Macintosh, Linux, Android or any computer running a VNC Client program over WiFi. You can then run any program, change files, update the system, reboot or halt the RPI as if you were connected to it with a keyboard, mouse and local monitor with any computer running the client software. Even a Nexus 10 Tablet! </div>
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So how do you do it? </div>
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I installed it using the instructions here: <a href="http://elinux.org/RPi_VNC_Server" target="_blank">http://elinux.org/RPi_VNC_Server</a></div>
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TightVNC is available for free at <a href="http://tightvnc.com/" target="_blank">Tightvnc.com</a> contains the client and server software, is available for <b>free</b> and works on most platforms (except android) . Remote Ripple client software does work on Android, requires a very small license fee and is available from the Play Store. </div>
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-39278565675215973522013-09-20T21:30:00.000-07:002013-09-21T09:35:12.519-07:00Hack 4.3 inch tft display to run on the Raspberry Pi's 5v DC supply! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I purchased one of the inexpensive 4.3 inch tft lcd display to use with my Raspberry Pi/Robot. It is set up for 12v DC Automobile voltage, but the hardware can be hacked to run on 5v DC power. The same power as the USB input on the Raspberry Pi and the logic supply on my motor controller. I did a search and found instructions for other displays, but not for the specific one I had purchased. No brand name on the packaging. It is model number BWCMO363 and is titled " 4.3'' Color TFT Car Monitor Support 480 x 272 Resolution + Car/Automobile Rear-view System Mirror Display Monitor" on Amazon that uses the xl1509-5.0 voltage regulator. <b>Note: do not do any of the following unless you are familiar with electronic components and comfortable with the procedures described. Altering the components can damage or destroy your display. </b></div>
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I found the data sheet and confirmed that pin 2 was the 5v out. Unlike other instructions, I just want to change the power requirements from 12v to 5v. I am not swapping in a USB cable or any other mods, so it is not necessary to unsolder the voltage regulator chip or even disconnect any other wires except the 12v + Red wire. We do not need to disconnect the ground since I am using this cable's Black/ground wire. </div>
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(xl1509-5.0 located center, far right on the circuit board. </div>
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Only 8 leg IC on the board))</div>
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This second photo you can see that I moved the red wire from the cable connector on the breadboard. I moved it over to pin 2 of the xl1509-5.0 voltage regulator and carefully soldered it to the pin 2 leg. Since there is no longer a voltage in feed, the regulator should be dormant and does not need to be removed or altered. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGbMMioTYJ49wqtfOTWI0X7CSeatjLQlnYcqhhBz5tXqeNMpKPqnYSO4zL0TXkTnYZSFgDCO_1tZlNkvZ7CkQyBvBIZxh381gK7TQzb_ekivEVJaKLpHQLT-sgo6nobt_9qbdCPXSZEUQ/s1600/IMG_20130920_190331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGbMMioTYJ49wqtfOTWI0X7CSeatjLQlnYcqhhBz5tXqeNMpKPqnYSO4zL0TXkTnYZSFgDCO_1tZlNkvZ7CkQyBvBIZxh381gK7TQzb_ekivEVJaKLpHQLT-sgo6nobt_9qbdCPXSZEUQ/s320/IMG_20130920_190331.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is my first solder attempt with surface mount components. As you can see i n the photo above, this is a very fragile procedure. I am pointing with needle nose tweezers! My tip of the soldering iron covers at least 2 legs of the voltage regulator. So just be prepared! </div>
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Since I left a long lead on the wire (less than a 1/8th inch) exposed, I put electrical tape above and below the wire to insulate it. Also, there is no strain relief for the input wires. (Solder is the only thing keeping it connected to the monitor!) I used a zip-tie, tightened around the wire inside the case. Cut off the tail and when it is closed up, the cable will snap before the solder joint comes under any stress. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jIO4rA2D6gbcu9oh0yMqQ7lzO0pTCWdRU0bv5bgQ1WIzRnkmpQcpkmNPuoquC6ljn8PdNjtUubtso-HaKk7xof9xJg_DtPvRx9bJ9egcqecPdYOLQZfgHh7oFcMlewO8oWtobZ2MS9E/s1600/IMG_20130920_192222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jIO4rA2D6gbcu9oh0yMqQ7lzO0pTCWdRU0bv5bgQ1WIzRnkmpQcpkmNPuoquC6ljn8PdNjtUubtso-HaKk7xof9xJg_DtPvRx9bJ9egcqecPdYOLQZfgHh7oFcMlewO8oWtobZ2MS9E/s320/IMG_20130920_192222.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Before closing it up or applying any power, check your connections. Then the only thing to do is connect it and confirm it works (another note on this model, connect a video signal/raspberry pi. Otherwise, without a signal it will not look like any power is connected!) </div>
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It's up and running! That is my desktop from my Raspberry Pi displayed on this little 4.3 inch tft screen and both of them are running on a regulated 5 volt dc power supply! The actual monitor I purchased is listed as :</div>
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model number BWCMO363 </div>
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4.3'' Color TFT Car Monitor Support 480 x 272 Resolution + Car/Automobile Rear-view System Mirror Display Monitor on Amazon. </div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Support-Resolution-Automobile-Rear-view/dp/B006MPRFJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379733796" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Support-Resolution-Automobile-Rear-view/dp/B006MPRFJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379733796</a></div>
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Note from the reviews: the model number stays the same, packaging and design (menu buttons) do change. </div>
Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-22344898548192960102013-09-19T20:49:00.000-07:002013-09-19T20:50:34.714-07:00Repair Terminals on Hobby DC Motors.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnl-K01brQiAGtWlCgTIkmgjE6hXO9veiszQBAk8MznKkR5ElRdP2PTtLgttzapKQu3NZEaJtIoYYmXsI0T4eZh5cZUSBNshW2CN9JC54dwPz04H7JXe7dos_umcppV6Y4ioJWPG79tpk/s1600/IMG_20130919_103526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnl-K01brQiAGtWlCgTIkmgjE6hXO9veiszQBAk8MznKkR5ElRdP2PTtLgttzapKQu3NZEaJtIoYYmXsI0T4eZh5cZUSBNshW2CN9JC54dwPz04H7JXe7dos_umcppV6Y4ioJWPG79tpk/s320/IMG_20130919_103526.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXQr95FbcZEw8t3EzhhJ5hKsEPd_AeXdTjO-U1H2gdV9nXPSWefubtFbylZ3XKiwY9NjP-7FiXwY-LIYIyICK5eJYmSPdDyAQE29OvZjU65fIbR9y0g83jUHaTGsoCUlrYiLWRYsM5G9A/s1600/IMG_20130919_102723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><br />
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A lot of people think the motor is destroyed when the fragile brass terminal connector that connects the wire to the motor's brush tears off. It happens all the time from wear and tear or even from disconnecting a terminal plug when they are brand spanking new. Most times there aren't replacements available for a darn good motor that has years of service ahead of it.<br />
Here is a quick and dirty fix which is not only a temporary fix, but could be way more secure than the original tab ever was. First, most often it breaks off at the motor frame and there is no metal to solder anything to. If you are lucky, you have a small gap wide enough to insert a couple strands of thin (stripped 24 gauge or smaller) solid copper wire. But most there will be no way to clean the existing metal. Lets change that! <b><u>(If you can get away without drilling, don't drill! If you get to aggressive, it can destroy the brush terminal!)</u></b> Take the smallest drill bit you can find, most often that will be 1/16th of an inch. If possible, go even smaller with specialty bits. We're not drilling through the case, so take it slow with a hand drill or drill press. I used a hand driven twist drill since you just want to open up/clean the area beside the motor's connector enough for a couple pieces of thin copper wire.<br />
You want to drill straight down beside the existing brush/terminal connection. A power drill will drill a hole too quick and <b><u>chew the brass brush to bits</u></b>. I fit 4 small pieces of solid strand copper wire beside the broken brass terminal. Then solder the brass and copper together making a new solid tab. That's it. Test your motor and you are good to go!<br />
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This motor required that both terminals be repaired. Works as good as new!</div>
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If you notice the circuit board in the upper photo with 8 mosfet and close to 30 transistors. Our new dual 45 amp motor controller for the upcoming robot! Lots of good stuff coming, stayed tuned!</div>
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<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-41648200407546510912013-09-09T00:21:00.000-07:002015-01-27T22:47:34.305-08:00Homemade GPIO breakout for the Raspberry Pi / PiFace! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My home made adapter allows access to all the GPIO pins while using the PiFace! </div>
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<b>Problem</b>: I have a Raspberry Pi with a Pi Camera. I would like to install a PiFace to control some of the robot's parts direct from the Raspberry Pi, but I would also like access to the GPIO pins so I could also add an arduino via I2C or even SPI. The Piface does not have a pass-through port or any access to individual GPIO pins (even though you can use 4 PiFace boards together, there is no way to connect them to each other or add any additional hardware.) I would love to use the PiFace with any other GPIO hardware! </div>
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<b>My solution</b>: a few inches of ribbon cable, 2x 26 pin (2x13) female plugs and 1x 26 pin (2x13) male plug. A couple dollars and the PiFace is shifted up and a little to the left, no longer crushing the Pi Camera's cable. It also allows me to use my original Pi case (can't be used with the stock PiFace) and now I have full access to all 26 pins of the Pi's GPIO port. </div>
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Tomorrow I will need to mount the board with a couple well placed plastic bolts since the PiFace does not have mounting holes (relied on pin and socket electrical connection of the GPIO to hold it in place!) This arrangement is so much better than the original configuration! One added benefit is the space between boards. I think I will take advantage of it to mount a cooling fan to provide airflow between both boards. </div>
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You can modify this in many ways, you could run several male or female plugs to make several GPIO sockets or you could terminate it on a circuit board as I am and build a custom circuit/controller for the Pi. Make your own sensor shield or just relocate add-on boards. Very easy and very inexpensive! </div>
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Tomorrow I plan to assemble a level shifter onto the board shown connected to the GPIO cable. This will connect an arduino board. I will also start designing a power supply to power the 3 different boards (Raspberry Pi, Arduino 328p and even a Mosfet h-bridge motor controller that is on a slow boat from China.. Literally! 4-6 weeks delivery from China!!!) </div>
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If it isn't clear what I am doing, I have some grand plans for a remote robot using both the Raspberry Pi and Arduino. The build gets bigger with each piece I complete, so I am going to try and slow it down and get the test platform working well (via Radio Control) and then I will move on to sensors, communication and automation. </div>
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As always, if you have any questions on any part of this build, or you have any info that you think will make this easier (or any suggestions), please feel free to comment. </div>
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<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-44919854869956875792013-09-07T01:18:00.000-07:002013-09-21T09:41:00.292-07:00Assembled the k8055 USB controller board! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Completed the assembly of the k8055 USB controller and Experimentation board. Got it running and tested on my laptop. <br />
It seems to be operating properly and tested well. The next step is to get a Raspberry Pi configured for this controller. I hope to have it set up and running tests on controlling robot hardware and processing sensor data direct from it this weekend. I also hope to share some of the harder steps and some videos on creating circuits for use by not only the k8055, but direct sensor processing via the Raspberry Pi's GPIO port as well.<br />
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-28226729474029156812013-09-05T16:50:00.000-07:002013-09-05T17:21:52.476-07:00Robotic power supplies and Raspberry Pi USB controller! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt215/MetalEd2009/IMG_20130905_160158_zpsefcf10b0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt215/MetalEd2009/IMG_20130905_160158_zpsefcf10b0.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I haven't posted here in a while since I have not played with my Raspberry-Pi much. I have been working on a couple arduino controlled robots and this week I made a nichrome plastic bender that is powered by a computer atx power supply that was converted into a robotics lab power supply with extreme accuracy in 1.25-11 volts DC using a LM350 voltage regulator IC. I'll add some pictures of that below. </div>
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I had planned to add my Raspberry Pi to the Arduino robot via I2C and a level shifter. But I think I may have found a way to make the RPI have more direct control. </div>
<a name='more'></a> Above is a USB controller kit with 5 digital, 2 analog inputs, 8 digital outputs and 2 analog PWM outputs. I may still need to connect the arduino to the RPI's gpio port and have certain real time events handled by the 328p (rpi time slicing under linux leaves a lot to be desired for real time IO.)<br />
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The USB experimentation interface kit is made, by Velleman and is model k8055. This is the kit, so solder/assembly skills are required. There is an assembled kit also available from velleman. This is made for the windows platform. But as I understand it, there are libraries written for Python (and other languages) and there are system hacks to connect it to the Raspberry Pi. As soon as I have mine assembled, I will post the exact methods I use to get it running under the Raspbian OS on the RPI! </div>
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I think I will start using the blog for ALL of my robotic/electronic experiments, since the rpi is only a fraction of what I am involved in. It will mean a lot more info and posts will be shared. Now onto the fun stuff, here are some more pictures of the lab power supply and voltage regulator I am just completing. </div>
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<a href="http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt215/MetalEd2009/IMG_20130905_151445_zps6b97854c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt215/MetalEd2009/IMG_20130905_151445_zps6b97854c.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The LM350 variable regulator ready to be connected to the lab power supply. </div>
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<a href="http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt215/MetalEd2009/IMG_20130901_130200_zps4808e194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt215/MetalEd2009/IMG_20130901_130200_zps4808e194.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Converted ATX power supply to a robotics lab power supply. Banana plug connectors are GND x2, -12v, -5v, +3.3v, +5v and +12v DC. The LM350 is connected to gnd and +12v and provides any voltage from 1.25 to 11v Dc with up to 3 amps current. It could also be connected to any of the other voltage plugs if I needed the 12v as well as a lower voltage at the same time. (why I used 2 grounds). Example, 12v motor supply and a 3v regulated MCU supply.<br />
If you want to know more about any of these projects, leave me a comment and I will be happy to share. (spams are deleted!)<br />
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-15057318357526191002013-07-03T11:03:00.001-07:002013-07-04T13:30:10.415-07:00Robot Rover 5 with Arduino Mega2560<div dir="ltr">
<img height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXnm6rT9bLfYTbS4OwW3QFlhs1v8V0RCeRRPxNyH25RW48G326c232VnlIAI3KmaHeHvvMQu0byV_6AZzIqKDFhs3LhnqKs2bTZmadVBjhszdNuxtPQp4DK6WsEd4h2pHQzK5Pj7Qwz8I/s400/IMG_20130703_104047.jpg" width="400" /></div>
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I haven't posted an update in a while, that's because I have been very busy with every spare moment building an Arduino controlled Robot. I haven't given up on the Raspberry Pi. The goal of this project is to actually have the Arduino control the sensors and motors, report the data back to the Raspberry Pi which will be controlling a camera and Internet wifi communication, it will take all the data and instruct the Arduino on what it should do and where it should go. <br />
So far it has been a fun and frustrating process. As many of my followers know, I <br />
<a name='more'></a>have only been at it for a few months so I have had to teach myself Arduino C and Python for the RPI as I go. And it has gone quite well. The Rover currently only has a rotating ultrasonic sensor to decide on direction, but I have also written some code in to detect the motor current draw which tells the arduino if it is stuck on something and also have a lever microswitch with a home made wire bumper on the front which is triggered by smaller items the sensor does not detect.. Items like a shoe. Items smaller than that, the tank tracks take care of. Actually, the motors are so strong (only using 2 of the 4 currently) that it will climb a wall until it is perfectly vertical! Nice little robot chassis. <br />
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The hardware that makes up this robot is currently:</div>
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Dagu tank tracked Rover 5 Chassis with 4 motor and 4 encoders</div>
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Sainsmart Mega 2560 R3 Arduino Clone</div>
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Sainsmart Mega Sensor Shield v2 (DO NOT USE! See below)</div>
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SainSmart Ultrasonic Module Sensor HC-SR04</div>
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Dagu 4 Channel 4 Motor Control Board(up to 5 amps per motor!)</div>
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SainSmart 1.8" inch TFT LCD Display ST7735 (using adafruit's driver library!)</div>
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7.2v 3800Mah Tenergy 6X Sub C NiMH Battery Pack (For motors!)</div>
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6x 1.2v 2700MaH AA Batteries (for Arduino and Servo/Sensors)</div>
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What is next for this robot. I have another lever microswitch, HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Sensor, Sharp IR Distance Sensor, Virtubotix Color Sensor as well as a Raspberry Pi with Pi Camera running Remote TightVNC over WIFI not to mention the rover itself still has 2 more motors, 4 encoders and 3 more current sensors that I still need to connect. I am going to try and get it ALL to fit into this system and see what I can get it to do. It's already a lot of fun and pretty amazing. with everything, it's going to get pretty interesting!</div>
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***NOTE- Remember, if you plan to use the Sainsmart Mega Sensor Shield v2, check the end of this post to see the problem I and others have run into!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXnm6rT9bLfYTbS4OwW3QFlhs1v8V0RCeRRPxNyH25RW48G326c232VnlIAI3KmaHeHvvMQu0byV_6AZzIqKDFhs3LhnqKs2bTZmadVBjhszdNuxtPQp4DK6WsEd4h2pHQzK5Pj7Qwz8I/s1600/IMG_20130703_104047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXnm6rT9bLfYTbS4OwW3QFlhs1v8V0RCeRRPxNyH25RW48G326c232VnlIAI3KmaHeHvvMQu0byV_6AZzIqKDFhs3LhnqKs2bTZmadVBjhszdNuxtPQp4DK6WsEd4h2pHQzK5Pj7Qwz8I/s400/IMG_20130703_104047.jpg" width="400" /> </a> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbm3qn5EhdDOTP_0Omh7Hbm-6WcIL4PU6Vf238k7qxuGNtEDRKzvKPdM958oqaPOUBQG1RaoP4jcKaz0dfkjeahyphenhyphenrMEKWhYPejKR7LuafLhRH3x-RrSkWZP9jVGezrvoZk3BO1bITvNKg/s1600/IMG_20130703_104150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbm3qn5EhdDOTP_0Omh7Hbm-6WcIL4PU6Vf238k7qxuGNtEDRKzvKPdM958oqaPOUBQG1RaoP4jcKaz0dfkjeahyphenhyphenrMEKWhYPejKR7LuafLhRH3x-RrSkWZP9jVGezrvoZk3BO1bITvNKg/s400/IMG_20130703_104150.jpg" width="400" /> </a> </div>
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Note: Sainsmart Mega Sensor Shield v2. Check the reviews before using this board, I found out the hard way with my Arduino getting super hot in minutes of plugging it in until the resettable fuse blew out.</div>
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There is a jumper on the sensor shield that is labeled "Power Sel.". This jumper has a couple long leads soldered on the bottom, that when the board are connected, shorts out against the USB port on the Mega2560 (sainsmart as well, don't know about others). I was lucky that only my fuse blew and I touched the hot spot. My 2560 came right back up. I checked the reviews and did what others had done. I sanded the leads down to almost nothing and then inserted a piece of padded double sided tape on top of the USB port to prevent them from making contact. If you want to use external power on the sensor board, you can remove the jumper and un-solder the pins completely.</div>
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Just be sure to check the reviews and check what others have said about this piece before using it.. it may work for you, but you need to check carefully during the install. Boards without the large USB (type B) connector, will not have this problem. But the Sainsmart Mega2560 and the Sainsmart 2560 Sensor Shield v2, will have this problem!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_W5deN-cRew1E_Wjd4LsJSDPqhQoJLaSh4rYfP9B9OI6cwGc4O_2pZxx7KIR8Ix9Ewj_03GrCruNY8ONjMdyuMvNdqtNeqPd2EJUN9YMRwfv2lk3z4nqeA1LrI54Y9WFbAGUhvVR9xRI/s1600/IMG_20130704_132426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_W5deN-cRew1E_Wjd4LsJSDPqhQoJLaSh4rYfP9B9OI6cwGc4O_2pZxx7KIR8Ix9Ewj_03GrCruNY8ONjMdyuMvNdqtNeqPd2EJUN9YMRwfv2lk3z4nqeA1LrI54Y9WFbAGUhvVR9xRI/s320/IMG_20130704_132426.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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See the double sided tape right above the USB port. The jumper right above that, it's leads make contact and short against the USB ports metal housing. </div>
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Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-32048687964520419812013-05-26T00:58:00.001-07:002013-05-26T09:08:20.620-07:00Backfeed / problem USB Hub(s) on the RPi! <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinA0womUaqz54oqrW5XTqQ0QKEAHCF5JSQufQoRBJoSgHKaqXudtyfNocePZahWM0yPi2vTvZZRtmCCNwdWT6J9Xq2tsiCp3Gf4iKMjzNBADYYeRgG3z_O3Nkzgg2xl3F-Ut2_SEuqoyo/s1600/IMG_20130526_005521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinA0womUaqz54oqrW5XTqQ0QKEAHCF5JSQufQoRBJoSgHKaqXudtyfNocePZahWM0yPi2vTvZZRtmCCNwdWT6J9Xq2tsiCp3Gf4iKMjzNBADYYeRgG3z_O3Nkzgg2xl3F-Ut2_SEuqoyo/s320/IMG_20130526_005521.JPG" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Plugable high speed 7 port USB Hub</td></tr>
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The first USB 7 port hub had major problems right from the start. Even though it had a 2 amp power supply and was a package deal item on Amazon along with the Raspberry Pi. It was a no name hub that would cause the keyboard to miss or repeat keys really bad. So much so, that I bought several keyboards while trying to find the problem. Finally it burned out the USB connection to the Raspberry... Not on the RPi itself . The one on the hub.<br />
So the next one, I went with a name brand and made sure it was on the list of <a href="http://elinux.org/RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#Problem_USB_Hubs" target="_blank">verified working devices for the RPi</a>. It was the Belkin F4U040 4 port hub. I used it for a couple weeks before I started having keyboard problems again. I found that I could fix it by powering up the RPi first and then powering up the hub. I also found that it was backfeeding the Raspberry Pi. If I unplugged the RPi with the hub still plugged in, the Raspberry Pi stayed turned on! Not a good situation and could have really damaged the little computer! I notice now they have it listed under the approved USB hubs, but with a note that it backfeeds. Then it is listed TWICE under 'problem' devices! But it is still 'verified'!<br />
Well, I have been running my 3rd USB hub for a few days now... No sign of a power <br />
<a name='more'></a>problem and I have checked it a few times/ways and there is no sign of a power backfeed problem at all. So this one looks like it is a good choice and 100 percent compatible with the RPI (and the blue lights look cool as well!). It is the Plugable High Speed 7 port USB 2.0 hub with a 3amp power supply item #USB2-HUB-AG7. Supplies 500Ma to 6 devices and then 428Ma to each when the 7th item is added. Way better than any of the others I have researched. Could even power the Pi off 1 port itself (makes my head hurt thinking of the problems that could cause in time and space... Don't do it.. Grin). This is a free plug to them from a happy customer! Finally!<br />
I can tell you, the wrong hub or too much power drawn straight from the RPi causes all types of weird hardware failures and even makes the Pi act weird itself. Things you will blame on everything else in the system. Why not would a 2amp hub with only a keyboard and mouse cause the Pi not to load the ethernet network and reboot it? It can! Weird stuff? Check the hub! Check for backfeed. Unplug the Pi, leaving your hub powered... If the rpi stays on.. Definitely have a backfeed problem.. Check the voltage on the board under these conditions with a voltage meter.. You may have less of a backfeed problem. The usb hub should not send power 'back' to the computer through the cable that is sending the data. If you think you have a hub power problem. Remove the hub. Even for a short test period and see if your problems persist. If you need a new hub, make sure it is verified to work with the rpi and check with actual users to make sure they are happy with it!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiujXsxLTbA6I1pshQQtwqvp7ducGlFiIOUmpVabeoCt1AOrPJIFrKVokFUYNWZhiT5okzhB9FlboL0RbT_xrdSTHJrypz3HY52SBQja3EIlydO-fDFa_mFy8QVy1I7cHtaFiZEdQNPS4o/s1600/IMG_20130526_085635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiujXsxLTbA6I1pshQQtwqvp7ducGlFiIOUmpVabeoCt1AOrPJIFrKVokFUYNWZhiT5okzhB9FlboL0RbT_xrdSTHJrypz3HY52SBQja3EIlydO-fDFa_mFy8QVy1I7cHtaFiZEdQNPS4o/s320/IMG_20130526_085635.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Macally that caused so many probs and burned out! </td></tr>
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<span id="goog_83674989"></span><span id="goog_83674990"></span><br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-22090305295895910842013-05-22T22:53:00.002-07:002013-05-23T12:02:31.266-07:00Add a case to your Raspberry Pi Camera! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Add a case to your RPi camera. Simple, safe and secure storage for your Raspberry Pi Camera. (Read everything and understand it all before starting this yourself. Any questions? Just ask!) </div>
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I received my Rpi camera and got nervous just using it. All the warning about static electricity as well as notices not to kink the cable. There is no safe way to set it down since the circuits are exposed. Accidentally set it on the pi and short out a couple connections and not only is your camera gone, but it could damage or destroy the Pi itself! </div>
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This entry is going to be detailed (long with lots of photos). So it can show you how I made a case that allows me to use my Pi Camera without worry. To start, the case I chose is rather large at roughly 3"x2.25" by 5/8" deep. You could get away with a case measuring 1.25"x1.25"x5/8" The reason being it's the smallest case that Fry's electronics had in stock. The cases can be found at most electronic supply stores and online by searching for "plastic electronic project enclosure". The one I have is for small projects and is designed to hold a remote control... Like a garage door opener. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HfQo5ImHqnk/UZ2KayOHnfI/AAAAAAAADGs/7y-_JYn-leo/s1600/IMG_20130522_133434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HfQo5ImHqnk/UZ2KayOHnfI/AAAAAAAADGs/7y-_JYn-leo/s320/IMG_20130522_133434.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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First step is to make sure everything is unplugged and that you wear a grounding strap or ground yourself to a cold water pipe to discharge any static. Figure out where you want to place the camera and mark it with a sharp brad or small drill. Since it is plastic, drill a smaller pilot hole to position the larger 5/16" drill bit. Don't use brad point drill bits (they may tear it up), drill at a slower speed to prevent melting and let the bit do the cutting. Don't force it to avoid cracking the soft plastic. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vgfo8T9cynU/UZ2KgZjOJoI/AAAAAAAADG0/yXB6bgPsUP4/s1600/IMG_20130522_133609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vgfo8T9cynU/UZ2KgZjOJoI/AAAAAAAADG0/yXB6bgPsUP4/s320/IMG_20130522_133609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The camera lens should fit flush against the case. You can smooth the edges of the hole with a piece of 180 sandpaper and your finger-tip. Protect the lens on hard surfaces. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2aim6gm_17U/UZ2Ko0PexXI/AAAAAAAADG8/6dD6z8-grw0/s1600/IMG_20130522_134415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2aim6gm_17U/UZ2Ko0PexXI/AAAAAAAADG8/6dD6z8-grw0/s320/IMG_20130522_134415.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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With the camera in place, I marked the screw holes with a very tiny phillips screwdriver, simply twist it a couple times to score/mark the plastic. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-onQgTiCVuzg/UZ2KrcjLtjI/AAAAAAAADHE/SDT8thl-jwI/s1600/IMG_20130522_135816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-onQgTiCVuzg/UZ2KrcjLtjI/AAAAAAAADHE/SDT8thl-jwI/s320/IMG_20130522_135816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Same drilling procedure with 5/64" drill bits. I then inserted the 2-56 x 3/4" nylon screws, then the camera board and the nylon nuts. I didn't have to tighten them down since the screws are the exact size of the breadboard holes. Just connecting the board to the nylon screws holds it in place. (if you do tighten the nuts down or use other hardware, be aware of the components! They are very close and it could damage the electronics!) </div>
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Since the screws are too long, I cut them off with wire cutters. (screws were found at Fry's electronics, but I have also found them in the specialty hardware drawers at local home improvement centers) </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p2Fcr67YACc/UZ2K2hDYQzI/AAAAAAAADHM/r8iB4nNjvvo/s1600/IMG_20130522_184633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p2Fcr67YACc/UZ2K2hDYQzI/AAAAAAAADHM/r8iB4nNjvvo/s320/IMG_20130522_184633.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I then used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a tab in the back cover and the end cap, just slightly larger than the ribbon cable so it can move freely. It can even sit on the edge or lay flat without kinking or folding the ribbon cable. Sand the cut edges smooth with the sandpaper. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A90cLsxm2-k/UZ2LaHOl0xI/AAAAAAAADHc/tGBdPwA22_I/s1600/IMG_20130522_185147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A90cLsxm2-k/UZ2LaHOl0xI/AAAAAAAADHc/tGBdPwA22_I/s320/IMG_20130522_185147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Tighten the cover's screws and you are done! Protected, self standing and lay flat for storage. You have a custom camera case! </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ILkrurD-ag/UZ2K_btn7lI/AAAAAAAADHU/n4-L6BmVspM/s1600/IMG_20130522_185653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ILkrurD-ag/UZ2K_btn7lI/AAAAAAAADHU/n4-L6BmVspM/s400/IMG_20130522_185653.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you have any questions, drop me a line in the comments and I will do my best to help you out! </div>
<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-61818252814499645712013-05-15T17:19:00.000-07:002013-05-22T23:03:45.872-07:00Robotic Camera Turret Controlled by Wii Nunchuk via Arduino Uno!<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/LCg3IpANMBs" width="420"></iframe><br />
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Been VERY busy this last week. I explored a little deeper into how to manipulate the real world using the Arduino Uno and a couple of servos. The control is the 3-axis accelerometer from from a Wii game system. The remote actually does have a thumb controlled Joystick on top and although the video does not show it, I can swith over using the "C" button and control the turret using the joystick. The "Z" button rapidly lights a blue LED.<br />
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To start, I ordered a Servo Turret kit from DFRobot, The 15kg one with the intention of actually mounting a paintball gun and a camera onto it. It will hold a paintball gun and even a .22 Cal Revolver, but at the extreme angles you can hear the servos straining. No delay in movement, but makes me uneasy that it could fail during use. So that idea is going to have to wait till I can afford some larger, industrial servos.<br />
The project started with we writing code for the servos and the wii nunchuk separately. The servos were no problem, as simple as looking up commands and tweaking the setting. For the nunchuk, I had nothing but trouble even trying to get the serial communications to work. I tried dozens of example codes online and every possible tweaks and I just could not get it to communicate. The trouble was I tried to save a couple bucks, I bought an aftermarket controller thinking there could not be any difference. There is a big difference in the actual programming of the aftermarket controllers. Don't use them unless you want to reinvent the entire process!<br />
When I walked in with the Original Wii controller, all of my samples lit right up and had no problem! One right after the other, almost all of them worked. The sample I decided to use was one that is recently posted on the<a href="http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,147238.0.html"> Arduino site</a><span style="font-family: inherit;">, not because it is the best, but because it is so close to the hardware I am using. This one includes sample code from most of the others I had tried, so it is an accumulation of the best pieces of each. It didn't just run straight out of the box, had to spend a couple days </span>rewriting<span style="font-family: inherit;"> it for my purposes as well. For the most part, </span>Raymond Willis Jr. did most of the hard work for me! Thank you Raymond!<br />
I don't think this project will go much further than cleaning up the wires and eventually incorporating it into the project for the Raspberry Pi to Host. I need to smooth it out a bit, not so damned responsive and of course connecting it to a remote operator via a radio of some description. So it's not the end of this project, it looks like it will be built upon in the future. As it is, it would be very useful on a Robot with a remote control to a camera or a weapon.<br />
For others doing similar things, the problems I ran into... The Wii Nunchuk, absolutely spend the extra $4 and go with the real deal.. it makes a BIG difference! Secondly, one servo worked great, the second one took the entire system down. Both servos became jittery and were uncontrollable to the point of no control. This problem was a power issue. If you are going to run servos, run them on their own power. Any problem with a servo? Check it's individual power! Low power to a servo can make just about anything happen... weird behavior from the board, jittery to no movement/control... it could be that there is not enough power to run the servo/system together... so just start by running the motors on their own power. (be sure to ground it to the common ground!)<br />
I have a couple sets (4 total) 12 volt, geared motors that I salvaged from the children's ride on toys. My son had these when he was a kid and you could not stop him. I have always thought they would be perfect for an autonomous vehicle. That is where I am eventually headed, so this weeks project and the lessons learned will definitely help out in that regard. Everything will be used for this one. Except it is going to be Run by the Raspberry Pi and a couple Arduinos might be used for motor and sensor control. Well, that's an upcoming post, but wanted to let people know where this is headed.<br />
Pi Hard! (With the Arduino...)Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1180796478855871170.post-36997803282222455132013-05-08T00:02:00.000-07:002013-05-22T23:12:04.864-07:00Motion activated Screen Saver in Python on Raspberry Pi<br />
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The past few weeks while installing my Raspberry Pi and Gertboard, configuring and testing other people’s software…I have been sitting on an idea for my first project. On one of my run’s to Radio Shack, I found a Parallax Passive Infrared (PIR) Sensor for only $5. Unknown if it would even work with my system (voltage and sensor type), I picked it up with this single idea in mind.<br />
The idea was to have the PIR sensor detect me as I come into the room and turn off the Raspberry Pi’s Energy Saving Screen Blanking. Well I dived right in and taught myself enough Python to get the sensor up and working (yes, the Parallax Rev. B PIR Sensor will work at 3.3v. (or 5 off the board as well)). I even managed to get the HDMI to engage and Disengage the power saving Screen Blanking. But it is a hardware issue that requires the screen to be redrawn to put the desktop back on the monitor.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Something that most people think isn't possible right now on the RPi (I have a few ideas on that though…). But even if I did get it working through TVService calls, it would not be feasible for the average user to try it out because it would have to be configured to each and every HDMI’s individual settings.<br />
Well, my solution for now, is to run the xscreensaver service and let the PIR handle shutting down the screen-saver when I approach the computer. Not exactly what I was looking for, but still a fun and useful first project. I am going to share it with anyone who would like to try it. Shouldn't need a Gertboard. It only needs one GPIO pin for the PIR’s signal line. I chose 25, but it can be any unused gpio io pin. Then a 3v3 or 5v pin for the PIR “+” lead, and a ground for the PIR’s “-”<br />
lead. Real simple, that’s the hardware except for the placement of the sensor, but that will be a personal choice for each person. Last thing about this hardware, the Parallax PIR sensor has a high and low setting. This is to adjust the range to between 15 to 30 feet. The sensor is ideal for the PI/Gertboard since it can run on 3-6 volts. It runs great on 3.3v.Now onto the code. Written in python. My first attempt after just learning about it a couple weeks ago. So please be kind in your critiques. It should run on everyone’s Raspbian system the way it is. One thing that will be required to run it “as is” is the xscreensaver configured and running on your X desktop. If you haven't installed it yet, you can get it with the simple shell command:<br />
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sudo apt-get install xscreensaver<br />
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(or use the synaptic or aptitude package installers…). After configured and tested. Then all you need to do is run code from a terminal using the command:<br />
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sudo python pir_test.py<br />
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It will give you a notice that you have 30 seconds to leave the PIR sensor area and then your screen will turn on your selected screen-saver. Walk into the area and as soon as the PIR sensor detects you, the program deactivates your screensaver, resets the gpio port and exits back to your desktop. Sweet, simple and all done in a few lines of code.<br />
I really urge you to enter the code by hand and try to understand what each line is doing. The downloaded Python Code is FILLED with comments. My comments aren't at all necessary. They are just to help you understand what is going on in the code. It is also not the only way to do the exact same thing. I have found a couple different ways to do each thing in the code, This is just the way I put it together. It is usable as it is, but not practical if you have to activate it every time you leave your computer. It would take a few more line to make it check to see if anyone is at the computer and have it activate if no one is around for 10 minutes. Not too hard to get it running when you desktop starts and have it loop so it runs continuously and resets itself when turning off the screen saver. These are a few of the next steps I am going to take with it. I would love to see others take this tutorial and make something useful out of it. If you do, please let me know!<br />
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Here’s The Code:<br />
<a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6iSa18Yq_CtakhXVV9Fb3o3MWs/edit?usp=sharing">pir_test.py</a><br />
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<br />Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02399746644847408224noreply@blogger.com1